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Wardrobe Tips

When are studs and/or cufflinks appropriate?

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Cufflinks and studs are generally reserved for formal dress rather than everyday business clothing. Tuxedos should always be accessorized with cufflinks and studs. A mother-of-pearl set of cufflinks is appropriate for white tie events, while plain silver or a tasteful color like black onyx can work with black tie occasions. for the more adventurous gentlemen, opt for novelty cufflinks and studs that reveal the real you.

If you’re attending a less formal occasion in a dress shirt with French cuffs, it can be accompanied by silk knots or a variety or novelty links that represent your interests, hobbies, or occupation.

What is the rule on sock color?

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Socks, when visible, act as an extension of the trouser leg. Choose socks in a shade that blends well with your suit fabric.

Matching suit to sock eliminates calling attention to the ankle in those moments when the trousers’ movement reveals the sock, such as when sitting or walking briskly. Trousers should be cut long enough to cover socks at all other times.

I’m seeing a lot of fat tie knots lately. How do I get that look?

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That smart, almost casual, more loosely wrapped European look is generally achieved with either a thicker, heavier weight tie to begin with, or by tying a full knot, sometimes with a combination of the two. You can get extra girth out of any tie with the Half Windsor knot. This look demands to be worn with a spread collar shirt. However, keep in mind the correct collar shapes and tie proportions to compliment your body shape.

The Half-Windsor is the less bulky version of the Windsor knot that supposedly originated shortly after the First World War. There is nothing halfway about the Half Windsor knot. It is the ideal knot for gentlemen who prefer perfect symmetry and balance between their shirt collar points. If you prefer to tie a larger knot make it a Half Windsor.

Although the Duke of Windsor claimed he never tied his tie this way and rejected the credit–this large, handsome knot and its accompanying namesake endures to this day.

Everyone seems to be going “green” these days. Is there a way to go “green” in my wardrobe, too?

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Being environmentally friendly with your fashions begins by choosing the right fiber. Cotton is a miracle of nature. It’s not only the world’s most plentiful natural fiber, but it also produces enough seed to replenish our fiber needs while providing additional seed for food, feed and even oil. Cotton is sustainable, renewable, and biodegradable, making it an excellent choice as an environmentally-friendly fiber throughout its entire product life cycle. Most chemical fibers are petroleum based, which means they come from nonrenewable resources. So you can feel good about selecting your favorite cotton shirts and casual trousers knowing you are doing your part to be eco-conscious.

At six feet tall I am never sure what length my suit jackets should be. Some fashion styles call for shorter jackets. What is the right length?

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Most ready-made clothing manufacturers assume you wear a long if you’re six feet tall or more. If you’re one of those guys who measure right at six feet-or just over or under-it is difficult to know which length is correct. Your decision has to be based on the cut of the jacket and your own body proportions. If you’re selecting a suit, you have to take into consideration the fit of the trousers as well.

As a tailoring rule, the most flattering jacket length for each individual is that length that gives the wearer the longest leg line and still covers his buttocks. With custom tailoring we like to strike a balance between the upper and lower torso so you don’t look disproportionately long in the legs or appear that you are all upper torso and no legs.

Can I wear a striped tie with a striped shirt? What about with a striped suit?

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While some would say, “Enough already with the stripes,” if you’re the adventurous type you could pull off a look that works if you follow some simple guidelines.  First, when it comes to lining up the stripes, a little goes a long way.  Next, keep the color palettes in the same family. Finally, watch the size and scale of the pattern, being certain to vary the scale, like wide with narrow.  Wear a wide stripe tie with a narrow-spaced striped shirt or a narrow-spaced striped shirt with wider spaced striped suits. You have to feel comfortable with what you’re wearing, of course, so if stripes-on-stripes isn’t your thing, stick to convention. Dressing well should be a fun form of creative self-expression, so break old habits and be a little brave when it comes to mixing it up.

How much of my shirt cuff should show past my coat?

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The sliver of sleeve that peeks out from a suit coat acts as visual punctuation. It gives the arm a definite ending point and creates balance within the ensemble.

Approximately one-quarter to one-half inch of sleeve generally shows past the coat sleeve.  Allowing the sleeve to extend farther may make the coat look too short, while showing less sleeve creates the opposite effect. The shirt sleeve generally ends at the wrist bone, with a cuff snug enough to keep the sleeve from sliding on to the hand, yet loose enough to allow freedom of movement.

How do I determine quality in suit fabrics?

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Natural fibers make for the finest suit fabrics. While a small proportion of polyester or nylon can add strength to a suit, too much synthetic fiber can detract from its important qualities. Wool, whether in a summer or winter weight, “breathes”, allowing air to pass easily through the fibers. This reduces the need for frequent dry cleanings.

Look for fabric that isn’t shiny, and that lays down comfortably when worn. Fabric should feel smooth and supple to the touch. Winter fabrics may be more substantial, but should still feel natural to the hand. Summer fabrics may include wool and silk blends, giving them a lighter feel while retaining the soft, relaxing feel of natural fibers.

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